I bought a new house built in 1984. I'd then trial fit the bowl, make a pencil line around the perimeter, then apply a thin layer of grout, plaster of paris, or floor patch about 1" wide around the inside of the perimeter, Set the bowl quickly on the wax seal and snug down the bolts. I inspected the flange when I replaced the seal (and nothing was wrong with the seal) and the hole that they cut in the floor is larger than the flange pipe - that seems to be where the smell is … The screws I used to attach the flange to that steel plate really pulled the flange tight to the steel. Previous owner installed new tile flooring in bathroom, and installed an additional toilet flange on top of old one. Just because the toilet didn't rock and seemed stable doesn't mean it didn't leak. My bowl was leaking, so I pulled the toilet up and saw that the original cast iron flange was broken. The existing toilet flange is not mounted to anything but the three inch sewer pipe. Closet flange spacer: if your flange is not flush with your finished floor, you will need a spacer to raise it up, so the wax ring seals properly with the toilet. I originally tried a flange repair kit, which was basically a real thin piece of metal that screwed down, but I couldn't get it around the original flange. I didn't have the balls to actually have people use it because I'm still evaluating the job --- but it went pretty well. Then I slid the flange into place and screwed in the Tapcons. I'm ready to install the flange (and of course, the toilet) on my newly-tiled bathroom floor, but there's a slight issue - I notched the tile to allow to flange to be fastened to the plywood sub-floor, but when I did I had the largest part of the johnny-bolt slots at 9 and 3 o'clock, so there's nothing … You also could replace the floor if you wanted to go that far. (You must log in or sign up to reply here.). Welcome to Terry Love Plumbing & Remodel DIY & Professional Forum. The new bolts will secure the flange against the bottom of the toilet. Can't tell from your pictures, but that blue flange needs to end up above the floor level a certain distance when done for it to seal. It should work fine, just fill crete in even and make smooth. Screw the Toilet Flange Onto the Concrete Use Tapcon anchors or a similar type of masonry/concrete screws to fasten the toilet flange to the concrete slab. Is there a better way or stronger way to anchor or bolt down a toilet to the floor/toilet closet flange? After closing the main water valve, flush the toilet a few times so that no water remains. 2. it can back up and tell you there's a bigger problem (ala needs an auger), while eventually clearing itself out, which is a nicer way to discover the problem than having it backup with other material... – dandavis Oct 1 '18 at 18:37 If you need to remove a broken, rusted, or separated toilet flange, or want to remove a seemingly impossible female pipe fitting, having the right tool for the job makes the task a whole lot easier. What would be the best way to do this? If using a plastic flange ring, be careful not to crack the ring by screwing the anchors in too far. Clear the floor and lay an old blanket or newspaper nearby so that you can rest the parts of the toilet on the paper as you disassemble it. The flange secures the toilet to the floor. do i need to solder the lead pipe and flange? ), was easily drilled with enough force and a new drill bit. An unwavering flange is crucial to a leak-free toilet. I applied ABS cement to the inside of the cemented ABS piece and to the outside of the flange. this connection wasn't originally soldered. If a proper seal is not achieved it will result in leaking. Toilet closet flange: this connects the toilet to the drainpipe. Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by imnoplumber, Sep 2, 2008. This is so the wax ring seals properly to the flange and the hub on the toilet. Place the Bolts and Wax Ring. The steel plate, approximately 1/16th+ in depth (.080? Replace toilet flange [ 7 Answers ] I'm replacing the tile floor in a bathroom. [ 4 Answers ] We took off toilet from carpeted floor and the flange did not seem to be attached to the concrete subfloor at all. Floor cut too far to mount flange to floor; Author: chiefplt (CA) I'm resetting a toilet in one of my bathrooms that has begun to smell - I figured the problem was the wax seal. I had to set a toilet today, and the brass flange (soldered to copper) had absolutely no screws in it, and the toilet rocked worse than a rocking chair. Step 2. Many toilet flanges are made of plastics, so try to secure the flange without over-tightening. i'm installing a toilet over my new slate floor and noticed there is nothing to screw the flange onto. Amateur night coming so hold on. No way to tell without looking. i was planning on hammering the lead drain pipe over the flange--will this be sufficient to hold the toilet in place? And pick up a new toilet flange. Especially so when there is nothing much to anchor the flange to the floor. The toilet flange needs to be raised for the addition of the underlayment, Ditra and tile. A poured cast iron flange is not going to rock or move anywhere at all if done properly and is by far the best repair option to replace an existing cast iron flange. … He screwed new flange into old one, and old fla … read more We are putting in a new toilet and have removed an old cast iron flange that was broken. Let dry and then use smack nails(expandable anchor, my preference) or maybe tapcons to fasten collar to floor. That includes any flange that’s more than 1/4 in. First thing to do is pop the toilet off and take a look. I know a great deal has been discussed about putting the toilet flange on top of the finished floor (tile). It was a fantastic surface. You DO want to attach the flange to the floor, as Mr. David said. It is worse when we run the ceiling fan - that seems to draw the air into the TT from around the flange. Allow to dry. once the concrete set, the pvc is cut flush and then a pvc toilet flange is glued in. You might think your loose toilet bowl is held down to the floor by a couple bolts. Toilet anchor bolts hold your toilet to the floor and keep it connected to the flange, which is the opening to the waste line. The majority of the time, I can find some wood to screw into, but this situation was a little different than what I'm use to seeing. Buy 2 wax-rings..the heavy duty ones..with the plastic cones built into the wax-rings! How do you replace the flange? what am I missing here. Toilet wax ring: this is essential to seal the toilet to the flange… Then I'd slather on JB Weld to secure the flange to the floor, leaving the bolts free to move a bit. toilet bowl leaks to empty in 30 min, starting at normal level, Soap Bubbles in Dalton when Washer is emptying. You’ll have to remove your toilet anyway if you have a water leak under the bowl. Or half the floor could be missing. If you have to use two wax rings a toilet flange extender should have been used. More ». you can flush a lot of ice down the toilet to accomplish 2 things: 1. it could push out a minor obstruction. If the flange is lower than or flush with the floor they make foam rings that cover the distance for a proper seal. When I got the toilet off though, I realized that the existing flange was very old and not mounted to the floor at all. After the toilet’s removed, inspect the closet flange. All the parts came up with the toilet. The flange and PVC pipe have some play, as in it can move up and down about 1/2". Screw the new flange to the floor using a screwdriver and the new screws that came in the product package. The floor is a concrete slab. Nothing left of the flange to use the bolts to hold the toilet to the flange. It's designed as a wax-less unit, at least between the toilet and the top of the flange. All of the concrete is busted out below where the flange would sit and there is nothing currently there to screw a new flange to. The cheapest and quickest fix would be coming at it from below via the kitchen ceiling. Toilet flange repair is one of those things…you don’t know you need it until you see a leak or see the flange when replacing a toilet. There is nothing to secure to because it was done wrong initially and the wood rotted away. Allow to dry, then install tank, etc. Concrete Flanges If you run into a flange that is going into a concrete floor, make sure you screw the new flange in with Tapcons, not drywall-type blanks and screws. I am replacing the wax seal around a toilet, and when I pulled the toilet I noted that the flange is not bolted to the floor. Can you fill in with a strong, quick drying concrete mix. I used the kind with the tapered wood screw type head so that once all the way in, they seated nicely in the recessed holes in the flange and held it tight. We set the new plastic flange in and tried to bolt it down and there seems to be nothing but air below where the screws should go in. JavaScript is disabled. The only thing securing the toilet to the floor was from the flange clamped to the sewer pipe. You must log in or register to reply here. The steps to install a toilet are the reverse of removing one, so you get a practice run before connecting the new one. Place the toilet flange on top of the opening and screw down into the floor. If the flange is damaged or loose, the toilet would wobble, and a wobbling toilet will twist the wax ring and later lead to leaks. on toilet flange here, we usally have a 4 inch pvc stem through the concrete, poured in place. And a "toilet-repair-flange"..that's a metal ring that ya screw to the floor over top of the old toilet flange if it's not usable and might help if the new toilet flange … A square hole was cut into the subfloor and the flange was brilliantly lined up so that there is nowhere for the screws to go in. It appears the backer board goes under the toilet flange. I have sometimes managed to drill at an angle and catch the concrete with long Tapcon screws in situations like this. Ditra has nothing to say about it. Someone dropped some long nails into the four holes but they grab nothing. Can't tighten down those 2 nuts on the sides of the toilet base too much or you end up cracking or breaking the toilet base. This happens when the flange does not have the locking slot on the underside to hold the bolts. If needed, rotate the flange either clockwise or anti-clockwise to lock into place. Is the also the recommended case for going over Ditra Heat? At this point, the ring nut that connects the toilet to the flushing tube must be unscrewed. I finished the project today, on Father's day, right before we were expecting company to celebrate the occasion(umm, fathers day, not the toilet being fixed). If the sub floor around the flange is damaged then nothing is going to keep the toilet secure. Make sure that there are no spaces between the flange and the floor before screwing it into place. A broken flange, usually on the outside of the slot that holds the toilet flange bolt (Photos 3 – 6). I'd clean up the area around the flange, then get the bolts in place. Do you have to cut the pipe and re-glue a new flange … Concrete hole too big to screw down toilet flange? With the toilet flange in place, you are ready to install the toilet with a new wax ring. below the finished floor (Photos 7 and 8). this can be after the tile or before allowing for height, and thats all. But the metal flange is mostly gone. It is a cast iron pipe and flange. It looks like your old flange was installed on … I can only assume there is a basement below. Keep in mind moisture, so choose appropriate anchor. The flange is also crooked by about a 1/4 inch variance. 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